Overview
The Rural method - champagne went through a winter pause - one fermentation that resuscitated in the spring when the temperatures warmed. Issues with the rural method included: no way to tell how much sugar was left for the yeast to metabolize in the spring causing effervescence to vary. There was no way to remove the dead yeasts so the wine was gritty and cloudy. The Champagne Method involves two separate and distinct fermentations solving the issues of the rural method.
Harvest Parameters
CIVC dictates the start of harvest and harvest usually starts in Cumières in the Grand Vallée de la Marne. Harvest begins when the potential alcohol by volume is at a minimum of 9%. Harvest can happen earlier by request if the minimum potential alcohol is already at 10% or if there is a risk of disease/rot. Grapes are hand harvested at cool hours. Unripe grapes are high in malic acid.
Juice Extraction
Grapes are whole clustered press near the vineyards where they are harvested. The coquard is the shallow and wide press wooden press that is used. There is minimal contact with the grape juice to ensure a clear juice. Pneumatic presses have replaced the coquard press. CIVC only monitors the amount of juice to ensure it is proportionate to the amount of grapes harvested for the amount of land owned. One Marc (4 tons of fruit) equates to 2,666 Liters which is further classified to the cuvée (2050 L), premiere taille (500 L) and Deuxiéme Taille (116 L). Only the cuvée and premiere taille can be used in the production of AOC Champagne. The remaining presses are used in fortified or still wine production.
Base Wine Production
After the juice settles to allow particulate matter to fall out of the solution the must is chaptalized if needed to produce a minimum alcohol level of 10.5 - 11.5%. Fermentations are carried out in stainless steel, oak barrels, wood or concrete vats. The must is separated for fermentation to take place by variety, village, and press cuts. Houses who use oak for fermentation: Bollinger, Krug, Gratien and Henri Giraud. Cultured yeasts are more commonly used although some producers will use indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is the norm, although global warming means less acidic grapes at harvest. Roederer does partial malolactic fermentation whereas Lanson blocks malolactic fermentation through temperature control. Lees contact (stirring) and oak aging can also be used to add flavor and texture to the wines.
Assemblage
Blending of the still wines - the cellar master, chef de cave is looking to maintain a house style during the blending process. One of the biggest considerations when creating the cuvée is that it is not a finished product and will go through a secondary fermentation, aging, dosage, and additional time in bottle before being released for consumption. Once the cuvée is determined it is fined and racked then cold stabilized with tartrate crystals which creates the vin clair.
Prise de Mouse / Second Fermentation
The vin clair and the liquor de tirage which consists of cultured yeast, sugar and yeast nutrients are placed in the bottle followed by the bidule which collects the sediment when it forms. A temporary cap is used to seal the bottle and the bottle is placed in the cellar sur lattes for the second alcoholic fermentation to take place. The second fermentation takes place in thirty days on average in the cellars.
Bottle Aging
Yeast settles and decomposes which creates the autolytic characteristics known as the champagne bouquet: toast, brioche, biscuit, and nutty characteristics. The minimum aging period is 15 months and 12 months must be spent on the lees. Poignetage - shaking of the bottle to prevent the lees from adhering to the glass - today this is done by fork lifts and moving the bottles throughout the cellars.
Collecting the Sediment / Remuage
The sediment needs to be collected at the neck of the bottle. This process can be done either by machine using a gyropallete or manually. A riddler is the cellar worker who will manually manipulate the bottle in order for the sediment to collect at the neck of the bottle.
Disgorging / Degorgement
This process can be done a la volée or by machine. The machine will freeze the neck of the bottle in an icy brine solution and remove the temporary cap to remove the sediment.
Dosage
Sugar and wine (same champagne or reserve wine) mixture added to top off the wine to balance the acid levels - the amount of sugar depends on the desired sweetness level. Jetting to keep the foam rising when the final cork is put into place to ensure there is consistency and less oxygen in the bottle.
Seal and Cellar
Cork and Muselet are attached and the bottle is shaken to integrate the dosage with the champagne. The bottle is then returned to the cellar so that the dosage can marry with the champagne (usually between 3-9 months). Mytik Diam is a new cork that is being used which eliminates TCA. The cork stays expanded and does not break down resulting in less oxidation.
Evolution in the Bottle
Mallard reactions take place in disgorged champagne and is caused by the amino acids interacting with sugars (dosage) to create flavors of brioche and toasted puff pastry. This reaction will not occur in Late-Disgorged or Brut Nature champagnes.
